Washing Cloth Pads, How to wash cloth pads and any reusable washable items, My cloth pad washing routine

You will find many different methods to everyone's washing routine. Washing Cloth menstrual pads can be as simple as take off dry store then wash. From really simple to some very complex I heard many ways people go about cleaning their cloth pads. And if it works for them that is fantastic but might not work for you!
Here is the thing everyone live in a different water areas, where the quality of water used for washing varies. Some have hard water, some soft, some rich in minerals etc. This has a very big impact on how clean your washing really gets and why some washing detergents might not work as well for you!
I have been using cloth diapers for many years now and the washing routine can be similar with cloth menstrual pads.
Here is an amazing resource if you would like to read more about the science behind washing and getting things really clean.
http://www.fluffloveuniversity.com/

As for myself I will share with you my cloth pad washing routine that works very well for me.

*used pads go in the wetbag. (you can use a plastic container with a lid or a bag that is lined with PUL. PUL is a plastic like material that when properly sewn and sealed can hold slightly moist items without wicking water thru the seams and to the outside of the bag.
if you would like to know how to seal such material please follow to my other blog post on how to make wet bag here :http://stargazingseamstress.blogspot.co.uk/2017/05/how-to-sew-wetbag-snack-bag-tutorial.html
If you would like to purchase a wet-bag please have a look at range I make for Moon and Stars Pads:
Moon and Stars Pads Wetbags Etsy

*if your period is really long you can wash the pads after 4 days or before you run out, depending on a size of your cloth pad stash.

*when dry storing you will need to pre soak the pads before main wash, this helps with softening the dried up blood and you will see a lot of red released into your water. Soak the pads in a bucket overnight or few hours before washing.

*depending on fabrics your pads are made out of you will want to stain treat some before the main wash.
If your pads are mainly cotton (cotton woven cotton jersey or cotton knit) it is necessary to apply a stain treatment, a natural bar of stain remover will work a treat, just rub it over the fabric top. If you do not want to be touching soaking wet pads you can add oxi clean- appropriate amount for your load.
Cotton topped cloth pad stain more easily than polyester or bamboo ones. I found that my pads topped with spandex or athletic wicking jersey or performance pique require zero stain treatment, bamboo velour pads can have some bleached parts where your PH reacted with the dye in the fibres.

* Bulk up your main wash if washing only a handful of pads. I used to put my pads with the diaper wash but now kids are out of diapers I'm putting some towels in.

* Set your machine on 40 degrees C this temperature will ensure that stains won't set in permanently and is better for the planet. If you worry about the bacteria add laundry antibacterial detergent like diaper safe bambino mio fresh or Dettol antibacterial laundry cleanser (UK not cloth diaper tested).
If you are suffering from thrush or any bacterial infection use higher temperature, do not go boiling crazy 90 degrees but 60 C will be sufficient and will not damaged fabrics much if used sparingly.
You see washing on hot setting and drying in the dryer will weaken the fibre making lifespan of your pads much shorter than intended which isn't really economical option.

* Use usual amount of powder laundry detergent, in hard water area I'm using a scoop of water softener as well. Do not add fabric conditioner! It will coat the fibres making them less absorbent!
Add an extra rinse on the end of the washing cycle. If you can set the spin to 1000 it will be better for your pads, yet again prolonging life of all components of the pad.

* Hang your pads on the line to dry, if you can find a nice and sunny spot if will be fantastic as UV rays will further help with stain fading!

Do you have your favourite washing routine? Please share it with me in the comments below xxx

Mermaid Cloth pad tutorial

This tutorial is for long awaited mermaid pad! I have decided to make it available free to all! To complete the tutorial you will need to purchase this awesome fabric specially designed for Stargazing Seamstress. The designs on this fabric have been optimized to shrink to size. Remember to pre wash all your fabrics before sewing!
You can purchase the fabric on Spoonflower
I recommend using performance pique fat quarter, the fabric colour fastness and print quality is fabulous also you can get all the 4 sizes 10, 11, 12 and 14 inch on one FQ!
If you prefer cotton woven some prints can come out grainy, or not same vibrant quality as the performance pique. Also with FQ of cotton woven you will only get sizes 10,11 and 12".

Please join Stargazing Seamstress group on facebook to download your FREE core patterns featured in this tutorial:

FILES

 OPTION 1 OF SEWING THIS PAD

Core in the Seam

Assemble the core with your chosen absorbent fabric to your preferred

absorbency. (more about absorbency in future posts)
*It’s important that you cut one piece in exact shape of the ‘Core in the seam’
pattern piece.
Cut ‘Booster’ piece to add absorbency and keep the pad trim around the
edges (technique known as a stepped core where each additional
absorbency layer is smaller)
Stitching all the core pieces together will ensure they won’t bunch up
inside your finished pad

Take the doll pad cut and either trim away the blue area outside of the

seam allowance (1cm) or follow steps to ‘sew on the line’

  Place the doll pad cut wrong side up, you will still be able to see faint
outlines of seam allowance (the solid skin tone line around the pad
shape).

Match the core to doll pad shape, core piece will be same size as the doll
pad cut after it has been pre washed.

Pin the core to the topper fabric.

 Baste in place as shown on the picture above.
Avoid sewing across the ‘arms’/wings.
Stitch within the seam allowance 0.5cm from the core edge.

 *Skip this step if you have trimmed the excess blue fabric and are
sewing with the 1cm seam allowance.

 Use a light box or DIY a lightbox as seen on this picture here, where I’m using a translucent
lid from a plastic box and a table lamp to create a light box like surface.
Light box will help to see printed lines much better. Using washable pen mark the ‘sewing
line’ around the doll pad shape.
**Remember you are marking the inner line, the one that will follow the exact shape and
size of the pad not the seam allowance.

Pin the front to the backing fabric, right sides together.

Following seam allowance or the sewing line you drew sew along the
pad leaving small opening at one of the bottom edges.

 Trim seam allowance to about 0.5 cm, snip in the corners and notch the curves.

Turn pad inside out, with difficult parts use chopstick or a knitting needle
to bring all the fabric out.

Tuck the turning hole seam inside the pad, press and top stitch.

 OPTION 2 OF SEWING THIS PAD

Floating Core

For the base of a floating core cut rectangular piece of fabric the size shown on the core pattern, this can be a thin cotton woven or a muslin fabric.

Cut the Floating core piece and boosters to top up your absorbency out of your preferred absorbent fabric.

Trace the sewing lines with washable marker from printed fabric on to the thin cotton or muslin.

Attach the floating core to the thin base.

Place the base with the core onto the topper fabric.

 You can use washable glue on the edges to make sure the core base is aligned with printed fabric.

Pin topper right side together to the backer water resistant fabric.

 Following seam allowance or the sewing line you drew sew along the
pad leaving small opening at one of the bottom edges.

 Trim seam allowance to about 0.5 cm, snip in the corners and notch the curves.

 Turn pad inside out, with difficult parts use chopstick or a knitting needle to bring all the fabric out.

Tuck the turning hole seam inside the pad, press and top stitch.

***Please note that those are free patterns, do not redistribute, copy or sell! Do not share the files! All free patterns are basic and do not include same level of details as our paid for patterns.